2/17/2024 0 Comments 2010 ford escape battery![]() So, if you lose power steering, you have lost not only the alternator but, additionally, the battery. The alternator output is connected to the power distribution box under hood, and the output of the alternator, whenever it is above battery current 'now' voltage, will push some energy into the battery above and beyond what is needed for accessories. mebbe it would?Ĭonsider that the battery is the power source for the starter, and the power source of 'last resort' for accessories when the engine is running. ![]() AC spikes are bad news, but I do not think a spike would stop a DC motor. AND the battery should provide power to the steering no matter what the alternator is or is not doing. If the voltage is above desired battery voltage, the regulator will regulate. The alternator feeds all those demands, but it feeds them in common with the battery, and anything not 'used' by accessories flows to the battery(just a little lower voltage than the alternator will do it.) for recharging. I expect there should be rather large wires leading to the power steering motor, as it takes some effort to move the steering linkage & tires, especially when stopped.įrom the description, I would be checking the base or simple power distribution for corrosion, loose connections, and bad grounds. I would be checking the power flow from the battery to the PDB, on the underside of the power distribution box, with large cables. If you lose power steering, you are losing battery power altogether, I think. *Not* saying that's your problem, but at 200K the alternator is past it's sell-by date and should be checked for more than just DC output. Modern cars are far more picky about having clean DC to operate on. He also told me that he had seen bad batteries cause the same issues even when they had enough energy to crank an engine because the battery acts like a signal bypass filter for the alternator. He changed the alt and the problem was gone. ![]() He picked up a high amplitude spike with his scope and told me it had a bad rectifier in it. Within 20 minutes he pinned it down to a bad alternator despite the fact that it was putting out over 14V and never needed a jump. He had the last generation Continental in his shop that two other garages couldn't fix, and it was in for random issues from stalling to various codes. This is the type of tech that other garages send the tough ones to for diagnosis, but I digress. ![]() You may be able to get a service manual with explanation on google storage(forget the name) as one other poster included a link to some diagrams, though they referenced a 2004 model.Ĭlick to expand.One thing I'll never forget is one Saturday afternoon hanging around my buddy's garage. There is something amiss, but it takes knowledge beyond what I know or can jot down here as the trouble tree thingy is several pages. If it seems to be charging, maybe get a piece of black electrical tape and cover the light(a JOKE). I think it might be a step to get a 'clamp on' ammeter and measure the output of the alternator, adding and removing loads such as blower motor, headlights, etc. It is apparently smarter than a breadbox, and will 'ease' the load on the alternator, and ditto the charge rate on the battery in certain conditions. You may be able to find out what the system is doing(supposed to do.) on the web. It is not as simple as having the proper voltage running and at rest, which you seem to have. It(the computer) also controls the light on the instrument cluster. From what I understand after reading a lot, the computer controls the field windings in the alternator, and will diddle with the alternator output as it desires.
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